On January 19, 2025, Prada presented its menswear Autumn/Winter 2025 show. As usual, the collection, called Unbroken Instincts, was presented at Fondazione Prada's Deposito, where the space was transformed into a three-story structure made of scaffolding. In contrast, the floor was carpeted with a beautiful blue Art Deco-inspired pattern similar to a William Morris print. The rug was designed by Catherine Martin, the highly acclaimed designer and producer who worked with Miuccia Prada on the costumes for The Great Gatsby in 2013 and has received four Academy Awards and six Baftas.
The space evoked a transient setting that combined the rough quality of the metal bars with the luxury of the fine, soft furnishing. It suggested a nightclub, perhaps, or the backstage area of a theatre somewhere. This added a sense of anticipation as the fashion world awaited the latest offering from one of the most exciting luxury brands right now.
According to International Leather Makerm (October 2024), Prada -- in stark contrast to many luxury brands that are currently in decline -- had retail sales of €3.43 billion for the period, growing by 15% (18% at constant currency), while wholesale improved by 8% (9% at constant currency) to €314 million. Royalties totaled €91 million and grew by 24%. Group CEO Andrea Guerra said that despite the challenging backdrop, they are confident in their ability to navigate the industry complexities and remain committed to their ambition to deliver solid, sustainable and above-market growth.
As seen on Instagram, the show invite was presented in a delicate white box. It contained a section of metal scaffolding tube with the brand's logo engraved on it, hinting at the utilitarian aspect of the collection. The collection was, indeed, utilitarian but also very elegant and faithful to the brand's classic tailoring codes.
Prada's collections always convey a strong message. After all, the designer did not formally study fashion but gained a doctorate in political science from the University of Milan before she studied mime. Here, Mrs. Prada and Mr. Simons -- who has been her co-designer since 2020 -- explored the concept of duality and the urge for security and intimacy.
As the show notes state, "Unpremeditated contrasts result in unexpected and seductive combinations -- clothing a body through instincts, unbroken by constraints of reason." This was seen in the mix of trends that came together seamlessly, such as Americana and sports references, faux fur and the color-blocking in some outfits. There were also plenty of classic silhouettes, which we have become accustomed to seeing at Prada's menswear shows, and the main themes explored were contrast and duality, as seen in the combination of textures and the styling itself.
Aside from formal suits, there were some beautiful oversized coats, puffer jackets and statement hoods. We saw some print clashing in the styling of the looks, reminiscent of many women's collections such as the Spring/Summer 2017 Miu Miu show or the Autumn/Winter 2016 Prada collection, and some interesting floral prints on T-shirts that gave the collection a quirky twist.
The colors were primarily dark monochromatic shades of brown, grey and black, but some looks included pieces, clothing and accessories in vibrant colors. These included a bright red parka gilet-style puffer jacket, a purple pair of trousers and some yellow Cuban-heeled western-style boots, which came in various colors and prints.
The accessories were subtle and carefully curated and became all the more important for it. Examples include a single orange earring in the shape of a basketball, oversized leather luggage (this hinted at the brand's roots as a leather luggage manufacturer since 1913) and the metal detailing in some of the knitwear. The designers described these as amulets, "knitwear is adorned with metal symbols without specific meaning, like amulets -- in a way, protecting us", which added to the sense of individuality that we have seen in recent Prada collections, such as their Miu Miu and Prada Womenswear.
Raf Simons' influence was also very present in a way that perfectly aligned with the brand's codes. All in all, the collection was emotive and complete in the sense that there was something for everybody. It will no doubt be a commercial success amid the fight for survival that some of its contemporary luxury giants are experiencing.